POR 15 Vs RustOleum- The Overall Better Rustproofing Paint?

The concept of rustproofing paint is not new and when it comes to vehicles, only a handful of the available ones were able to win our hearts. Two really popular options that people to date think for rust revention and better upkeeping are RustOleum and POR 15.

And that might be the reason why arguments on which one is better exists and probably keep on existing. So, to add up more stuff (important ones of course) we decided to conduct a comparison between POR 15 vs RustOleum.

And looks like, the mission was successful. The great at holding up POR 15 or the much affordable RustOleum, which one truly makes the cut? Let’s find out!

Major Comparison Points Of POR 15 Vs RustOleum

Let’s start with a RustOleum and POR 15 comparison chart, just give it a read, and then we are good to enter the actual details.

Looking Into the Formula

So, Rust-Oleum used to have whale oil in their formula before. However, now you don’t see that. There are alkyds, latex, epoxies, and polyurethane instead. These derive resin, which is used for the formulation.

And then if we look into the formula for POR 15, then it’s water-based. And supports preparation scheme mostly. The zinc phosphate metal etching characteristic is also there. And is free from any toxic element, non-caustic, does not allow corrosion, and is also non-flammable.

The formulation of POR 15 basically is meant to sense the moisture presence and dry quickly. And this makes a seal. It prevents any ingredient from causing metal deterioration.

Keep in mind there are also iso-cyonates in POR 15. So, whenever you’re using it wearing a respirator is a must. Also, work in enough ventilated areas.

The moisture-holding out the power of POR 15 is way better compared to any single part primer. While with Rust-Oleum, it’s going to work wonders than any old air-dry enamel product.

Formulation-wise, both are made very well keeping a few targets or goals in mind.

The Number of Coats Needed?

For the most general type of application, it’s recommended that one goes for two coat applications with the POR 15. And while the first coat is still tacky, but close to dry, going for the second coat right then works best.

While with the Rust-Oleum, you can make it work with only one. Yes, here only one coat is required for any color that is not white. However, for the white shades, applying two coats work better.

Now if someone wills to use another coat of Rust-Oleum, then they can. There’s no problem with going for the second one. Just make sure there’s a 6-hour time in-between both coats or else it can mess up with the first coat and the second one will also sit poorly.

Looking at the fact that Rust-Oleum needs just one coat, makes it a bit better than POR 15. But keep in mind the real measurements would only come from the fact that how well each applies and performs afterward.

In Terms Of Application

Talking about POR-15, the thing needs to be applied on a rough surface. So that it can grip easily. Because the product does not react with the rust but grips it. Surely people think before application, they need to clean the surface and make it really shiny. However, that’s not the case here.

Because if you do so with a metal, then chances are POR 15 won’t even stick properly. Not even when it was sandblasted.

And that makes it clear, POR 15 is fabulous in terms of sheet strength. But it’s not the best with adhesion, quite poor actually. And that is one reason, some would refer to it as paint over rust.

The trick with POR 15 is to make sure you are applying it right or having the rightly prepped surface. Otherwise, it’ll mess up for sure.

There’s no chemical bond to happen with POR 15. Nor is there any tooth that would grab the surface. It’s not how this formula works. And often that’s why people misunderstand it.

Applying Rust-Oleum is easier compared to that, but sometimes the result you expect does not come out. And this is because depending on what surface condition is, the outcomes can be different.

Some suggest one should try freezing the Rust-Oleum overnight in a normal fridge. And this will allow the paint to flow out right before any hardening has taken place. For frames, it’s not really a great choice, however.

Also, about the POR 15, in case you need to apply it on super clean metal, here’s a tip. Try proper urethane paint or powder coating. That way, things will work out better.

Regarding The Performance

The biggest issue that POR 15 gives in terms of performance is UV intolerance. So, for areas that are quite likely to stay under the sun, this may not work really well. And there can be discoloration seen after a few days. However, the topcoat can help here.

Rust-Oleum on the other hand is actually a product meant for farm-used equipment. And so, when you apply it on vehicles, fading would be sooner. Rusts will start to show again. The thing that can help here is the provided rusty metal primer, it does give a good holding.

Coming back to POR-15, as electrical conductors, it’s usually poor. And that means powder-coating on top of them might just be a good idea. However, of areas such as misc. metal segments, other suspension parts, and IRS diff, it does a great job. Even the engine can have touch up with it.  

In terms of industrial strength, the POR-15 does touch that standard. You just have to make sure the surface got to prep the right way. While Rust-Oleum needs slightly finicky prep work so working with it could be less flexible compared to POR 15.

Also, both of these products are not the best solution for the long-term holdouts. They work great for initial rust presentation mostly. So don’t have too many expectations from the application.

Bring It to The Longevity

POR15 might peel off with certain surfaces. Even paint does not stick-on top of it after curing. But if it’s still, just curing it would make the thing last for almost forever. And usually, it’s going to stay for more than 4 years.

However, Rust-Oleum has a reputation of lasting for 5 to 10 years and in some cases beyond that. For example, if you apply it to the rear axle then expect the thing to hold up pretty fantastic. However, in the case of the frame, it’s going to be a disaster very likely.

One thing that happens is that it just cures too fast on the frame. And having to dump two batches of paint fresh because of that would be painful. The same goes for brushes. And so, POR 15 on truck frame sounds better than this.

On the other hand, POR 15 would work great underneath the car as well. If you go with the right application, there’s a chance of having it on spot for more than 10 years.

Price Point For Both

POR 15 would have cost you around 40 to 50 dollars for each quart. But even the smallest can would be enough. As it goes further than what most people think. You can invert it for preserving purposes. And then reuse it afterward if necessary.

Compared to POR 15, Rust-Oleum is definitely cheaper. It’s going to cost you 10 bucks for the same quart amount, which is pretty cheap honestly.

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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

POR 15 VS RustOleum – Which One Is Better Overall?

Again, preference and needs would win the debate while both of these draws. Because there are different scenes where one would do great while the other won’t fit. And understanding that is the key of this whole POR 15 vs RustOleum argument, that’s what we feel. 

Also, proper prep of the surface being absent is often the main villain that later throws the blame on these two. And so, once you make up your mind on which one to go for, work on your surface preparation skills. Gather enough information regarding that as it’s the actual thing that’s going to really help.

With POR 15, having done the right prep will definitely give you better-looking results. Even though the prep could feel a bit annoying, it’s worth it. Also, the fact that it’s great with withstanding once you do it right. For rear-end of trucks, it does a fabulous job and there’s hardly any chance of seeing scratches even with hard rides.

With RustOleum, don’t forget the red oxide primer and everything else shall work without problem. Yes, it would last pretty well with the primer, and if possible, add a black semi-loss enamel too. Not to mention, it’s way affordable and might just be fantastic for anyone not willing to spend much.

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